Costuming Tips for Tribal & Fusion Belly Dancers

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Credit Crunch Costuming

There's no denying it, a new costume can make all the difference to a performance, and the soul can be soothed by a lovely new creation.  But there's no soothing your purse if it's empty and you're left feeling as though you shouldn't really have bought it...

With this in mind here are a few tips about where UK Tribal and Fusion dancers (and cabaret dancers too) can find great accessories for their dance wardrobes that won't break the bank.  I am always on the look out when I'm at car-boot or yard sales, in charity shops and at second-hand and thrift stalls. 


  • Flowers and feathers - I buy flowers and feathers where-ever I see suitable ones.   This could be in a hard-ware store selling items to decorate your home, a shop that has hair accessories on sale, or a charity shop with a bunch of fake flowers and a brooch made of feathers.

  • Shops such as those that sell lots of everyday wardrobe items are an absolute gem - look for knee-highs in lacy patterns that could be used as arm covers/gauntlets or gloves, flowers, jewellery, scarves that can be made into other things such as panels, belts that could have extras added.  Here's a top tip - look out for childrens skirts edged in pretty brocade fabrics in sales and snap one up to cut up and use as headdress bases.  You might even have a bit left to edge a bra....*

  • Bikini bras in opaque fabrics can make great bases for tribal and fusion bras.

  • Be creative - necklaces, earrings and bracelets can become head-drapes, bra decoration, belt dangles.  Scarves make good bra cover fabrics, belt base fabrics and panels or fusion skirts.   If it's reasonable enough to buy then you can afford to take things apart and play around with them.

  • Remember, with this kind of costuming more is more, but use some artistic restraint.  You should aim to look opulent and alluring, not as though you walked into a thrift store and threw on everything you could find.  Take a look at the many pics on the Internet of other tribal and fusion belly dancers and work out what you like and then look carefully at how it has been achieved.  Is it an ordered and simple look, or more relaxed and opulent?

  • If you're looking for "bling" to add to a costume piece make sure to hunt around in sales for jewellery that can be taken apart and added to your costume.  I made a cabaret two piece recently that has some beautiful bling on the bra and skirt that was originally jewelled bracelets, bought in a sale.  This sometimes works out cheaper than a wholesale buy if you just want those pieces and not be tied in to buying items up to a particular amount in order to get a great discount.
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  • Sometimes, things you see that look like they might be interesting might never be found again (something I am ALWAYS discovering in discount stores).  If you see something that you think looks good BUY IT if it's a reasonable enough and if you end up hating it there'll be someone who will have a use for it.
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  • Get an opinion from someone you trust once you've bought or even made your new costume item - you might have the most fabulous idea but it may look WRONG when you wear it.  Perhaps it just needs a second pair of eyes and a tweak or two.  Please ask someone for an opinion, and if they are enthusiastic then you're probably on the right track.  If they're not enthusiastic, ask someone else and then decide what to do.

  • Get together with troupe mates and have a "swap session".  One womans junk is anothers treasure....
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  • Always always always check the sale rails.  Did I need to tell you that?  Thought not......
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American Tribal Style Costuming

By Blackwillow

For many the allure and popularity of ATS (American Tribal Style) belly dance is enhanced by the eclectic, dramatic and striking visual dress style of the dancers almost as much as the group connection required in the actual process of dancing. For others it is off-putting and almost aggressive in its execution. The deep rich colours, large items of jewellery, layers of skirts and full trousers and the addition of a heavily decorated bra over a fitted, long-sleeved and back-less top comes as a shock for those with an set vision of how a “Belly Dancer” looks. Because the look is hugely different to that worn by those more used to the bright colours, sequins and beads of Cabaret/Oriental belly dance it can be difficult to work out where to start, what to buy or make and how to wear it.

What I hope to do here is point you in the right direction for some of the many Internet and book resources in existence that can enable you to conceive and create your own personal and troupe visual identity. Some I have had the opportunity to use and so can personally recommend, others I have yet to try out for myself but feel that the instructions are clear.

Whilst many styles of Tribal Belly Dance exist, including the Fusion styles that are applicable to both group and solo dancers, what I have concentrated on here is the basic ATS costume initiated by Fat Chance Belly Dance and developed by numerous others over the years. This includes a fitted back-less choli, decorated bra, tiered skirt, blouson trousers (popularly known as Harem trousers), tassel belt and turban/head wrap and large items of jewellery.

The look is one that draws elements and influences from many cultures across Asia and the Middle East, but one should be clear that many of these elements are more usually a fantasy representation of those cultures. There are many visual sources for design ideas available on the Internet or in publications such as National Geographic to help you to put colours and textures together in an interesting way.

The following articles, whether Internet resources or books, assume a reasonably confident level of skill with a needle and thread and sewing machine. You will no doubt find further links to similar articles once you start researching, but the following are my particular favourites due to their clear instructions and inclusion of pictures.

  • Back-less Choli 

The Belly Dance Book: Rediscovering the Oldest Dance (Paperback)
by Tazz Richards (Editor), Kajira Djoumahna (Introduction), ISBN-10: 0970024703
Publisher: Backbeat Pr (Sep 2000) - In a large section devoted to belly dance costuming Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes how to make a back-less choli from a commercially available dress pattern.


  • Decorated Bra

Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques (Paperback) by Dawn Devine Brown, ISBN-10: 0967817064, Publisher: Ibexa Press (May 2003) – A fabulous and thorough “Workshop in a Book” that explains the process of converting and decorating a bra to the highest standard.

  • Tiered Skirt

www.wiggle.org.uk/skirt.htm A great article with photographs. Be warned! Construction of a tiered skirt is simple but time consuming.

  • Blouson Trousers   Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes clearly how to measure for and construct a pair of trousers to wear underneath your skirt/s. These trousers are easier to make than a simple circle skirt as there is no curved hem to deal with. Find links to The Costume Goddess from www.shira.net


  • Tying a Turban

www.davina.org/turban/sample2.html A sample page from Dawn Devine Browns’ book, From Turban to Toe Ring, available to buy from the same website.

The Tassel Belt
http://www.davina.org/CNJune2001/RHPattern1.htmlThe instructions explain and illustrate how to make a reversible hip wrap.
http://www.farfesha.com/pages/tassel_making.htmlTassels can be added to this hip wrap to make a tassel belt.

  • Jewellery

One of the best resources for Tribal costume jewellery is eBay – just remember to look at the feedback records of sellers, read the descriptions thoroughly as pictures can be deceiving and be aware that if you’re paying (affordable) peanuts you’re not getting something antique. For other vendors type Tribal Belly Dance Jewellery into a search engine. Don’t forget to look at the links pages in any of the above-mentioned sites for further information and ideas. You can also find items at car-boot sales and charity shops if you’re lucky.


  • Extras

You can download one of Dawn Devine Browns’ (previously available for a fee) booklets for free at www.davina.us/publications/hintsandtips.html

www.costumes.org For a wealth of articles and pictures about historical and ethnographical costuming.

Visit www.Tribe.net and search in the many Tribes for Tribal Belly Dance and Tribal Belly Dance Costuming that exist there for more hints, tips and advice.

  • Fabrics and Colours

When choosing fabrics be aware that lots of layers means heat. Cottons are a good place to start as they will “breathe”, whilst panne velvet is a favourite for the choli top as it has some stretch, and brocades make a good addition for hip belts. Deep jewel tones such as purple, forest green, deep blue, burgundy/wine and black are a good place to start your colour palette. You can then add brighter jewel tones in green, yellow/orange, pink, red etc to lift and provide visual contrast. Also be careful not to “match” too much – matching items are more Cabaret in style – although using an accent colour on a head-wrap/turban belt and as an edging on a skirt will pull a look together.

Please be warned, as with any other dance costuming you may find yourself consumed with the desire to make or buy items until your house overflows and your families and friends roll their eyes with despair. No matter – be brave in your choices, wear your items with pride, and enjoy every moment.

My apologies to those whose articles I have not included, my thanks to those I have.


Updated 26/07/2010